Category Archives: Privateer Press

Rocky base for Feral Warpwolf

I had a Feral Warpwolf sitting on my shelf that was just waiting for a base, and he had been waiting for that base for going on a year…no idea how that happened! So I decided to just go ahead and get that taken care of. I had some spare sculpey bits and some wooden craft sticks sitting around, as well as some leaves for basing that I really love.

First, I tore the edges of the sculpey and stacked a few bits together. I also broke off bits of some craft sticks. I then assembled all of this with some super glue. PVA would probably be fine as well, but I accidentally bought a HUGE bottle of super glue that turned out to be 30 minutes set time (I didn’t read the label thoroughly…), so I use it for basing a lot.

1 begin building base with sculpey and sticks



After the glue set, I used Vallejo Red Oxide Paste to fill gaps, smooth transitions, add texture, and glue additional rocks on.

2 red oxide paste and various ballast


Then I began airbrushing. First was a mix of RMS Woodstain Brown and RMS Golden Shadow. It doesn’t matter too much at this point to be neat.

3 golden shadow and woodstain brown mix


Then I started adding color, because straight grey or brown is so boring! Also, nothing in nature is truly just one color, a brown rock is more than just brown if you really look at it. I used VGC Goblin Green next.

4 VGC Goblin Green


And RMS Bloodstain Red, then VGC Falcon Turquoise…

5 RMS Bloodstain Red then VGC Falcon Turquoise


After that I washed it with GW Agrax Earthshade to tie it all back together.

6 wash agrax earthshade


Here is the wash dried:

7 dried wash


Then I began drybrushing, first with RMS Aged Bone.

8 drybrush aged bone


Next, I drybrushed several more colors – RMS Rust Brown, VMC Azure, VGC Goblin Green, RMS Golden Shadow.

9 various drybrushes RMS rust brown VMC azure VGC goblin green RMS golden shadow


Then it was time to black out the edges, drill holes for the pins in the Feral Warpwolf’s feet, and attach the model. Once that was done, I put Vallejo Matte Medium on the base wherever I thought it looked like it needed fallen leaves, and then applied  Secret Weapon Summer Color Mix fallen leaves to those areas.

10 leaves with matte medium

11 leaves with matte medium


Now that it finally has a base, this model will be listed for sale soon!

WIP: Privateer Press Hordes Feral Warpwolf

About a year ago I painted a pair of Feral Warpwolves, but I didn’t finish one so it’s been sitting on the shelf literally just waiting for a base. During that year, the Reaper Brush-On Sealer turned white in some areas on the models, which was obviously very unexpected. It was probably due to an overly thick application, but I can’t be totally sure about that. I don’t use the stuff now, and I haven’t for a while. So I had some work left on these models. I managed to very easily fix the problem of the white sealer in crevices by painting over it, and during the process I did a little more work on a few areas. It’s really amazing to me to look at models I painted a year ago that I was so happy with. Now, although I do not think they are bad by any stretch of the imagination, I know that I can do better. At the time they were the limit of my skill and knowledge.

Here they are after fixing the sealer and re-touching a few areas.




Hopefully I will get around to making a base for the 2nd Warpwolf soon, but my daughter and I have been sick for the last few days, so it’s been hard to get much of anything done.

Upcoming projects!

It appears that there is an entire Chaos Dwarf army in my future, as well as a Be’lakor Daemon Prince (with a daemon throne base I’m really excited about), and a Legion of Everblight starter set. What a great way to start painting in 2014!

I do still have room in my schedule to fit in some commission work. Contact me if you are interested!

Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator Project Orange Crush

I finally got around to finishing the last, but probably most important, part of the Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator for Project Orange Crush: the orange glow!

I airbrushed the big glowy areas starting from a dark orange and working up to a fluorescent yellow (I had to brush by hand the tiny glowy bits also), then glazed it over with Model Air Fluo Red, which looks pretty orange to me. Project Orange Crush has asked that the models not be based so that Privateer Press can do it for consistency in the armies, so at this point the model is done:

14 15 20 21

WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator Cont.

Next step on my Project Orange Crush Mitigator was to dry-brush from top down only with Vallejo Liquid Silver alcohol-based metallic. I really like the finish the alcohol-based metallics give, but they can be difficult to work with. The flakes tend to get everywhere and the paint travels differently than acrylic paint because of the differences between alcohol and water, so you have to be very careful with it. Because this model is currently all metal anyways, and because I was only dry-brushing, I didn’t have to worry about these things this time thank goodness!

The dry-brushing added an extra level of shininess to the highest lights and edges of details on the model.

12 13

Afterwards I sealed it again with varnish. The next thing I’ll be working on is the orange glow!

WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator Cont.

The next step on the Mitigator was to gloss varnish and do a black watercolor wash all over. I typically use either liquitex ink or GW washes, but I’ve been wanting to try an oil or watercolor wash for a while. A wash that you can apply and then clean up with a solvent or water sounds really appealing to me as I’m pretty tired of things drying wrong and having to use paint to fix it.

2013-11-04 15.53.44


Turns out you can be about as messy as you please with the watercolor because it cleans up beautifully. After cleaning the watercolor wash with a wet Q-tip I sealed it with gloss varnish again. Then, I further defined some shadows and lights with the Reaper metallics I used previously and added Reaper scorched metal to the mix.10

WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator Cont.

Next I used Reaper Sparkling Blue and Reaper Blackened Steel to add more definition to shadows, and I used Reaper Polished Silver to bring up the highest lights. This was the first time I sprayed Reaper metallics through my Badger Krome, and, to be honest, it wasn’t that pleasant. It worked out in the end, but I spent the entire time fighting almost instant dry-tipping and clogging. I’d prefer to spray Vallejo Model Air only in the future!


WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator Cont.

I got to work more on the Mitigator I’m doing for Project Orange Crush again today. First, I sprayed the whole model black. Then, I over-sprayed white to define the lights and shadows even in the base coat.



Next, I sprayed the whole model with a relatively thin layer of Vallejo Model Air Gun Grey. I really like the Model Air metallics. They are very fine, and they don’t cause almost instant dry-tip on the airbrush like other metallics I’ve sprayed do. You can see the natural lights and darks caused by the black/white base coat:



[Edit: DYAC!]

WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator cont.

The mould lines and casting issues on this model were some of the worst I’ve seen on a Privateer Press model. Here are just two examples:



I did finally get it all cleaned up, and then I primed it with Vallejo grey surface primer.




Tomorrow, more work on the Mitigator!

WIP: Privateer Press Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator

Well I’m finally able to start on the model I’m painting for Project Orange Crush – Convergence of Cyriss Mitigator.

Here are all the bits once I split them out of the Convergence of Cyriss Battlegroup Starter Box:

Cyriss Mitigator WIP 1


Lots of tiny bits, although Syntherion was worse!

Then I got started on the mould lines, and boy were they bad! I’ve worked with a few Privateer Press models before that didn’t have nearly the mould lines this model did.

This is as far as I got cleaning it while re-watching an episode of The Walking Dead:

Cyriss Mitigator WIP 2


More mould line cleaning tomorrow, and then hopefully I can get it primed! I prefer to let the primer have at least 24 hours to cure before I apply paint, and I’d really like to get going on this project. All the waiting around is killing me!