Blog Archives

WIP Reaper Alastriel

I’m working on a very fun commission right now of a great sculpt by Werner Klocke – Reaper’s Alastriel. The mini had more casting issues than I would have expected, but nothing that can’t be fixed. Here she is so far:

WIP 8-1-14 front 1000 wide WIP 8-1-14 back 1000 wide

Let me know what you think!

Upcoming projects!

I’m going out of town for a few weeks, so I probably won’t be able to post much (if at all) during that time, but before I go I’ll put up a picture of a converted Ogre Hunter I’ve been working on. When I get back I have a commission for a beautiful Reaper Alastriel! It’s definitely one of my favorite Werner Klocke sculpts, and I’m really happy to have a reason to paint one.


Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragons!

Here are finished photos of the two Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragons I painted this month.

Dragon 1:

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon Standard+ with Level 2 basing


Dragon 2:

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon 2 Standard+ with Level 2 basing

As you can see, both dragons are basically alike. Dragon 1 was painted for my FLGS Atomic Empire, and Dragon 2 is for sale for $65.

How to: Reaper Hydra with Marsh Base

Here’s how I did the Reaper Hydra with a marsh base!

1. Clean mould lines, boil, dry fit while cooling to reduce gaps.

1 boiled and dry fit so less gaps when cooled

2. Prime black

2 primed black

3. Paint the scales on his back VGC Jade Green, highlight with mix of Jade Green and RMS Linen White.

3 back scales VGC Jade Green and RMS Linen White

4. Wash back scales with Army Painter Blue Tone ink. In this picture the left has not been washed yet.

4 wash army painter blue tone ink

5. Paint the rest of the hydra VGC Falcon Turquoise.

5 vgc falcon turquoise

6. Wash with GW Nightshade.

6 wash nightshade

7. Next it was time for the faces – which there are a ton of!

7 mouths

8. Build the bases.

8 build bases

9. Paint the bases when they are dry.

9 paint bases10 paint bases11 paint bases12 wash bases camoshade13 drybrush fow camo shade

10. Add stumps to bases.

16 add stumps

11. Finish the faces and assemble the Hydras!


12. Paint stumps.

17 paint stumps

13. Add grass.

18 add grass


14. Add water effects mixed with Flames of War Camo Dark Green paint, also mix in GF9 Marsh blend flock to “gunk” it up.

19 add water effects gf9 march blend attach to base

15. Pin back feet, attach to base.

final base2014-03-29 18.31.44

Reaper Finari Female Paladin

Recently, I painted Reaper Finari Female Paladin. This was the metal version of the model. As usual, it was primed with Vallejo Surface Primer. I primed it with zenithal lighting, which is something I’ve been doing a lot more lately, and I find it can be very helpful.



Using RMS Fair Skin and RMS Fair Highlight and RMS Flesh Wash (as a glaze) I painted her face. I also used RMS Golden Blonde on her hair.

2 hair and skin


After that I washed her hair with GW Seraphim Sepia.

3 washed hair

4 washed hair


Next, her hair was drybrushed with RMS Golden Blonde, and then drybrushed again with a mix of RMS Golden Blonde and RMS Linen White. I also painted in her eyes.

5 drybrushed hair original color and then mix in linen white

6 drybrushed hair original color and then mix in linen white


After, I basecoated the various parts of the model with RMS Oiled Leather, RMS Muddy Brown, or VMC Dark Prussian Blue.

7 basecoats


After that I began the blue NMM.




8 start blue nmm


The base is carved sculpey tiles mounted on cork.

9 start base


First it was basecoated VMA Mahagony.

10 base vma mahagony


Then I began lightening it up.

11 more base


And more.

12 more base


Next, I highlighted the blue cloak and finished the blue NMM.


13 start blue cloth highlighting

14 blue done


Then it was time to begin the gold NMM.

16 start gold nmm


And more.

17 more gold nmm


Then I finished the base.

18 better base


And worked more on the gold NMM and the steel NMM of the sword, and did the leather bits.

19 more nmm work and sword

20 more nmm work and sword

21 more nmm work and sword


And here she is finished!

Finari compilation

Reaper Reptus Warlord Khong-To

This model was actually pretty fun, aside from the fiddly wrist joint that really needs careful pinning.

The skin/scales was first painted RMS Peacock Green.



Next, it was drybrushed RMS Olive Skin Shadow. The goal was for the skin/scales to have a bronze-like appearance per the character description given to me. This model is to be used as a D&D character.

4 first drybrush


After that it was washed with thinned RMS Peacock Green, drybrushed RMS Stormy Grey, drybrushed again with Olive Skin Shadow, and drybrushed to highlight with RMS Olive Skin.

7 final skin before wash


After that the skin was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade.


9 wash skin gw earthshade


After that it was time for the armor. The upper armor areas were airbrushed first with RMS Rust Brown, and the highlighted with RMS Palomino Gold.

10 airbrushed upper armor


Next, the lower armor areas were airbrushed RMS Ritterlich Blue, then RMS Viper Green as a highlight.

11 airbrushed lower armor

Then the armor edges, spikes, and back armor plates were painted VMC Brass.

12 vmc brass brings it all together


After that it was time to finish up details and paint his base.



After that his arm was attached, and he was finished!

Reaper Reptus Warlord Khong-To Fin 1

Reaper Reptus Warlord Khong-To Fin 2

Reaper Reptus Warlord Khong-To Fin 3

Reaper Reptus Warlord Khong-To Fin 4

WIP: Reaper Dalton Krieg, Adventuring Knight cont.

After my last post I did a lot more work on Dalton Krieg. I finished the tunic, painted details per the character description I was given, and began a base. I built the base up with green stuff to the level of the rocky base he was cast with. I didn’t have to take much care to make it flat since it was going to be a stone floor. The texture could only work in my favor.






After the green stuff hardened I painted the base!



WIP: Reaper Dalton Krieg, Adventuring Knight

I recently painted a knight to be used as a D&D character – Reaper Dalton Krieg, Adventuring Knight. I really like this sculpt, although the cast had some issues on the face. On this model I tried a new-to-me technique for shading and highlighting metallic paint.

First, the model was primed Vallejo Surface Primer Grey. He was painted with the sword and shield separate.



Next, I painted the armor with a basecoat of VMA Gungrey.

2 vma gungrey on armor


Next, I decided to use the verdaccio underpainting technique on the red tunic, and this time with greater care than before. First, I used RMS Military Green.

3 underpainting red rms military green

4 more underpainting


Next I added black to the Military Green to deepen the shadows.

5 more underpainting mil green and black

6 back


After the green undercoat was finished, I used a 1:1 mix of RMS Violet Red and VMC Carmine Red for the base red color. You can see how the shading of the red is already well-started.

7 rms violet red mixed with vmc carmine red

8 front


Next it came time for the armor! The new-to-me technique is really more of a way of looking at how to paint metals in general. Basically, all metal is painted in a NMM technique whether you’re using regular paints or metallic paints. High contrast is extremely important, as is taking into consideration what the metal will reflect. You have to paint in all the darks and lights. The metallic paint will not do all that on its own, and it’s not designed to. To that end, I shaded the VMA Gungrey with a very thin VMA Black (mixed something like 5 parts water to 1 part paint, maybe even a little thinner). I highlighted first with a very thin VMA Aluminum, and then with a very thin VMA White.

9 shaded armor

10 more shaded armor

Reaper Devona Female Mage

A while back I posted about painting Devona, but I never posted about finishing her base!

The first thing I did was to level out her base with some green stuff. It didn’t have to be perfectly flat because she was going to be standing on stones. Next, I painted the base black, and then painted grey stonework onto it.

Here’s how she turned out:

Devona final 3

Devona final 2

Devona final 1


Devona is currently for sale for $40. Contact me if you’re interested at

WIP: Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragon

The bulk of the work on this figure was done with my airbrush. I used Reaper Dark Elf Shadow as a base color, then highlighted with RMS Dark Elf Highlight. I used VMA Black for the deepest shadows. Then I used VMC Dark Prussian Blue (a fabulously beautiful color!) to begin the blue areas on the wings, frills, and body. After that, the blue areas were taken up to RMS Surf Aqua. Then, for the final lights on those areas, I used VMA White and then RMS Surf Aqua again. Putting the white first allows the Surf Aqua to be brighter. The transparent nature of these paints means that even if a bright color is used, if it has a dark base it will not appear bright. Putting that white “barrier” in between the dark and the aqua helps that.

15 start over this point all airbrush

16 same as last

17 same as last

The airbrush really made quick work of it to this point, but now it was time for the detail-work.

The plan was to make the scales, especially the chest, appear iridescent. To that end, the next colors used were a bright green and a violet-red.

18 start of irridescent effect

19 same as last

After that it was the horns. I base-coated them with RMS Weathered Stone.

20 start horns weathered stone

After that, I washed them with Army Painter Dark Tone Ink, and then highlighted them back up with RMS Weathered Stone.

About this point in the painting, the owner of this dragon asked me to add a washer in the base so that it magnetic counters used in D&D would stick to it, so I dug a hole in the cork to place it so that the surface of the base could remain flat.

21 washer for magnetic counter

Next, I covered the washer with Vallejo Red Oxide Paste.

22 cover washer

After that dried, I began painting over it to blend that area back into the base, and I decided the eyes should be a bright orangey-yellow instead of bright blue.

23 eyes and start covering washer

And here he is finished:

100_1744cropped1000pix 100_1745cropped1000

This dragon was a ton of fun to paint. I really enjoyed the colors. However, the Bones plastic was such a pain! Mould lines would just appear out of nowhere! I will probably paint a couple more of these dragons this year.