I’m going out of town for a few weeks, so I probably won’t be able to post much (if at all) during that time, but before I go I’ll put up a picture of a converted Ogre Hunter I’ve been working on. When I get back I have a commission for a beautiful Reaper Alastriel! It’s definitely one of my favorite Werner Klocke sculpts, and I’m really happy to have a reason to paint one.
Here are finished photos of the two Reaper Pathfinder Red Dragons I painted this month.
As you can see, both dragons are basically alike. Dragon 1 was painted for my FLGS Atomic Empire, and Dragon 2 is for sale for $65.
Here’s how I did the Reaper Hydra with a marsh base!
1. Clean mould lines, boil, dry fit while cooling to reduce gaps.
2. Prime black
3. Paint the scales on his back VGC Jade Green, highlight with mix of Jade Green and RMS Linen White.
4. Wash back scales with Army Painter Blue Tone ink. In this picture the left has not been washed yet.
5. Paint the rest of the hydra VGC Falcon Turquoise.
6. Wash with GW Nightshade.
7. Next it was time for the faces – which there are a ton of!
8. Build the bases.
9. Paint the bases when they are dry.
10. Add stumps to bases.
11. Finish the faces and assemble the Hydras!
12. Paint stumps.
13. Add grass.
14. Add water effects mixed with Flames of War Camo Dark Green paint, also mix in GF9 Marsh blend flock to “gunk” it up.
15. Pin back feet, attach to base.
Recently, I painted Reaper Finari Female Paladin. This was the metal version of the model. As usual, it was primed with Vallejo Surface Primer. I primed it with zenithal lighting, which is something I’ve been doing a lot more lately, and I find it can be very helpful.
Using RMS Fair Skin and RMS Fair Highlight and RMS Flesh Wash (as a glaze) I painted her face. I also used RMS Golden Blonde on her hair.
After that I washed her hair with GW Seraphim Sepia.
Next, her hair was drybrushed with RMS Golden Blonde, and then drybrushed again with a mix of RMS Golden Blonde and RMS Linen White. I also painted in her eyes.
After, I basecoated the various parts of the model with RMS Oiled Leather, RMS Muddy Brown, or VMC Dark Prussian Blue.
After that I began the blue NMM.
The base is carved sculpey tiles mounted on cork.
First it was basecoated VMA Mahagony.
Then I began lightening it up.
Next, I highlighted the blue cloak and finished the blue NMM.
Then it was time to begin the gold NMM.
Then I finished the base.
And worked more on the gold NMM and the steel NMM of the sword, and did the leather bits.
And here she is finished!
This model was actually pretty fun, aside from the fiddly wrist joint that really needs careful pinning.
The skin/scales was first painted RMS Peacock Green.
Next, it was drybrushed RMS Olive Skin Shadow. The goal was for the skin/scales to have a bronze-like appearance per the character description given to me. This model is to be used as a D&D character.
After that it was washed with thinned RMS Peacock Green, drybrushed RMS Stormy Grey, drybrushed again with Olive Skin Shadow, and drybrushed to highlight with RMS Olive Skin.
After that the skin was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade.
After that it was time for the armor. The upper armor areas were airbrushed first with RMS Rust Brown, and the highlighted with RMS Palomino Gold.
Next, the lower armor areas were airbrushed RMS Ritterlich Blue, then RMS Viper Green as a highlight.
Then the armor edges, spikes, and back armor plates were painted VMC Brass.
After that it was time to finish up details and paint his base.
After that his arm was attached, and he was finished!
After my last post I did a lot more work on Dalton Krieg. I finished the tunic, painted details per the character description I was given, and began a base. I built the base up with green stuff to the level of the rocky base he was cast with. I didn’t have to take much care to make it flat since it was going to be a stone floor. The texture could only work in my favor.
After the green stuff hardened I painted the base!
I recently painted a knight to be used as a D&D character – Reaper Dalton Krieg, Adventuring Knight. I really like this sculpt, although the cast had some issues on the face. On this model I tried a new-to-me technique for shading and highlighting metallic paint.
First, the model was primed Vallejo Surface Primer Grey. He was painted with the sword and shield separate.
Next, I painted the armor with a basecoat of VMA Gungrey.
Next, I decided to use the verdaccio underpainting technique on the red tunic, and this time with greater care than before. First, I used RMS Military Green.
Next I added black to the Military Green to deepen the shadows.
After the green undercoat was finished, I used a 1:1 mix of RMS Violet Red and VMC Carmine Red for the base red color. You can see how the shading of the red is already well-started.
Next it came time for the armor! The new-to-me technique is really more of a way of looking at how to paint metals in general. Basically, all metal is painted in a NMM technique whether you’re using regular paints or metallic paints. High contrast is extremely important, as is taking into consideration what the metal will reflect. You have to paint in all the darks and lights. The metallic paint will not do all that on its own, and it’s not designed to. To that end, I shaded the VMA Gungrey with a very thin VMA Black (mixed something like 5 parts water to 1 part paint, maybe even a little thinner). I highlighted first with a very thin VMA Aluminum, and then with a very thin VMA White.
A while back I posted about painting Devona, but I never posted about finishing her base!
The first thing I did was to level out her base with some green stuff. It didn’t have to be perfectly flat because she was going to be standing on stones. Next, I painted the base black, and then painted grey stonework onto it.
Here’s how she turned out:
Devona is currently for sale for $40. Contact me if you’re interested at MGMPaint@gmail.com.
The bulk of the work on this figure was done with my airbrush. I used Reaper Dark Elf Shadow as a base color, then highlighted with RMS Dark Elf Highlight. I used VMA Black for the deepest shadows. Then I used VMC Dark Prussian Blue (a fabulously beautiful color!) to begin the blue areas on the wings, frills, and body. After that, the blue areas were taken up to RMS Surf Aqua. Then, for the final lights on those areas, I used VMA White and then RMS Surf Aqua again. Putting the white first allows the Surf Aqua to be brighter. The transparent nature of these paints means that even if a bright color is used, if it has a dark base it will not appear bright. Putting that white “barrier” in between the dark and the aqua helps that.
The airbrush really made quick work of it to this point, but now it was time for the detail-work.
The plan was to make the scales, especially the chest, appear iridescent. To that end, the next colors used were a bright green and a violet-red.
After that it was the horns. I base-coated them with RMS Weathered Stone.
After that, I washed them with Army Painter Dark Tone Ink, and then highlighted them back up with RMS Weathered Stone.
About this point in the painting, the owner of this dragon asked me to add a washer in the base so that it magnetic counters used in D&D would stick to it, so I dug a hole in the cork to place it so that the surface of the base could remain flat.
Next, I covered the washer with Vallejo Red Oxide Paste.
After that dried, I began painting over it to blend that area back into the base, and I decided the eyes should be a bright orangey-yellow instead of bright blue.
And here he is finished:
This dragon was a ton of fun to paint. I really enjoyed the colors. However, the Bones plastic was such a pain! Mould lines would just appear out of nowhere! I will probably paint a couple more of these dragons this year.