I started on the wet-blending on the sword:
I also changed the color of the wings on his helmet and basecoated the little bit of leather he has. Soon I will finish the sword, leather bits, NMM gold details, and then do the base. This model has really been one that looks messy until it comes together in the end, and I’m nearing the end so it better come together!
A few days ago I bought a cheap ($30) but useful tabletop photo studio off Amazon.com, and tonight I finally got a chance to set it up and try it out.
I took new photos of the Skink unit I recently painted:
I also took some decent photos of the two Fenrisian Wolf Packs that I recently painted:
Overall I think the tabletop studio is very useful and was certainly a good purchase, but I think I need at least one more light to fill the front of the space. It came with two lights, and they just aren’t able to fill the entire space with light on their own. Ideally, I think I would have 4 lights, but I’m going to try 3 first.
The next step on the Company Master was to wash it with GW Biel-Tan Green. This reduced the minty look the green armor had taken on in highlighting. After that I base-coated the robes with RMS Yellowed Bone. Then I used two-brush blending and RMS Uniform Brown to begin working in the shadows. I also painted the ropes with RMS Yellowed Bone and washed them with GW Seraphim Sephia.
The next model I am painting is a Company Master from the Dark Vengeance set.
First thing I filled a small gap on his cloak with Humbrol Model Filler. For simple gaps that stuff is easier to use than green stuff. Also, it dries very quickly and is easily sandable. After that I primed him with Vallejo Surface Primer in grey and attached him to a simple cork base.
Next thing was to basecoat the red cloak in RMA Mahogany and the green armor in RMS Leaf Green mixed with black. I highlighted up the cloak with VMC Carmine Red and RMS Oiled Leather. I highlighted up the armor with more RMS Leaf Green and RMS Pure White.
Honestly, this model is a bit of a nightmare to paint completely assembled, but trying to assemble it afterwards is scary, too, as I’d be afraid I’d scratch the paint! In order to attach any of it together the two body pieces and head piece had to go together at the same time, so the only piece it was even practical to leave off was the pack. More tomorrow!
I got to do the finishing touches on the Fenrisian Wolf packs finally!
First, I painted their mouths with VMA Mahogany. I really love this color, it is very versatile.
After that I mixed a little RMS Pure White into the Mahogany and painted their gums and tongues. All that was left was the teeth. I painted them RMS Creamy Ivory and then highlighted with RMS Pure White. Then I decided to do a little extra highlighting on their fur, so I lightly drybrushed with a mix of RMS Chestnut Gold and RMS Golden Highlight.
Bases were next. I painted black around the rims and then mixed up a paste of PVA glue and Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow. This I applied with one of my sculpting tools, sticking it on wherever I felt it was needed. Here they are finished:
The eyes on these wolves are teeny tiny. I originally wanted to give them the whole treatment with orange-brown irises and everything, but it just wasn’t practical right now. I’ve seen people do them as though they are glowing with OSL, and maybe I’ll do that on another pack in the future. I do really like that look, but these two packs are going to be a bit more realistic. I also did their noses and the highlights on the noses and eyes. At this point they just need their mouths and bases finished!
I’ve had to move up the timeline on Reaper Karzoug Rune Lord of Greed, so the wolves will have to take a break for a day or so.
One trick that worked out quite nicely was to have Sherwin Williams mix up a sample can matching GW Calthan Brown. The paint is out of production from GW, but that is not the problem. It is a nice dirt brown, but every manufacturer makes colors that work well as dirt. The problem is that basing can use a lot of paint, especially when you’re painting over glued sand. It is much cheaper to use a matched paint (or really just whatever dirt-brown catches your fancy) from Sherwin Williams, Lowe’s, etc. The paint is at least as durable, and you can get a container the size pictured for about the same cost as 2 pots of GW paint.
Bases coated in one coat of matched GW Calthan Brown:
The next step on the wolves was to wash them with a mix of GW Seraphim Sepia and glaze medium. I don’t want the wash to be too dark, and the glaze medium both thins the wash and makes it much easier to control so I don’t end up with pools in obnoxious places.
After that dried I used a very thinned RMS Aged Bone to highlight the legs, paws, and faces.
Next up are the details on the paws and faces, and then the snow bases!