Here are some quick shots of a gaming standard Retribution warcaster commission: Dawnlord Vyros, Issyria Sibyl of Dawn, Lord Arcanist Ossyan, and Vyros Incissar of the Dawnguard. These models are part of a larger lot, but they are the models I am painting first. My client’s color scheme involves rocky armor, which is something I hadn’t seen anyone do before. I will be painting some ‘jacks coming up, and hopefully more Retribution models for this army down the line.
I just finished this Ogre Ironblaster. I was going for quick and simple, but this model is pretty much impossible to do quickly, lol. Also, all of those little details are just begging to be snapped off! I really like the model, but I’m not too keen on having to assemble another one for a little while! It was nerve-wracking, lol.
In the next couple weeks I have a Lizardmen commission to complete – Skink Priest, Tetto’Eko, and skirmisher movement trays.
I will take step-by-step photos and post a how-to about the movement trays!
Before all that, however, I need to finish the Ogres project with the Limited Edition Bruiser/Tyrant.
This is just a quick-and-dirty (but not actually dirty!) how-to for a tabletop level High Elf Prince on Griffon from the Island of Blood boxed set.
First, clean the mould lines, assemble, fill gaps, etc. as desired. Next, prime with zenithal lighting. This will give you basic, strong lights and darks to start with.
Next it’s a good idea to get the base started so it can dry while you paint the griffon. I used Vallejo Red Oxide Paste and added a little large-ish ballast while the paste was still wet (it’s an excellent glue). You could just as easily coat the base with PVA glue and apply sand.
Now you need to select a light, medium, and dark shade for the flank of the griffon. I used RMS Golden Highlight, RMS Golden Shadow, and RMS Olive Skin Shadow. For the quickest work, use an airbrush to apply the paints. If you don’t have one, then a large brush will go a long ways to speeding things along. As long as you maintain your brush tips, even very large brushes can paint very tiny details. Details as small as eyes can be painted with the tip of a size 3 W&N Series 7, so the flank of a High Elf griffon should be no problem. Also, paint the base coat on the feathers. I used RMS Creamy Ivory.
The next step is to wash the feathers on the wings. You could also wash the feathers on the body at this point, although I didn’t do that until later in the process when I painted this model. I used a watercolor wash, but you could use a premade wash, watered down acrylic paint, or an oil wash. All will have results that are a little different, but all should still turn out fine. If you plan to use an oil wash, make sure to remember to satin varnish before you apply it so you can effectively clean it up after.
Here’s my watercolor wash before clean-up:
After I cleaned up the watercolor wash, it was time to drybrush the wings. I used RMS Linen White, which is a little lighter than the original base of Creamy Ivory, but not a stark white.
At this point, check your base. If it’s dry, then it’s time to start applying paint to it. I airbrushed it, but if you don’t have that option then make sure to use a large brush. Make sure to switch away from your really nice brushes so the rough texture of the base doesn’t tear up the bristles! I covered my base in VMA Black, then RMS Olive Skin Shadow. I also applied a little VGC Goblin Green and RMS Sandy Brown to make it more interesting.
Now it’s time to work on the details of the griffon. First, paint the legs and beak a color of your choice. I used RMS Explosion Orange. After, wash the legs and beak. I used Army Painter Strong Tone Ink. I really like the Army Painter inks for making quick, neat work of things like this. I feel like they apply a lot easier than GW washes, and they stay where you put them.
After, I applied VMA Black to the tip of the beak and the talons.
At this point I washed the rest of the feathers, but it would have been fine to do that earlier as well.
Drybrush the body feathers the same as the wing feathers, and now it’s time to get to the tiny High Elf Prince. If you’re airbrushing, mask off the top of the griffon under the cloak. I used a couple small strips of blue painter’s tape. Because of the zenithal priming, a shadow color really isn’t necessary on the cloak and banner, so pick a mid-tone and a highlight. I used RMS Sapphire Blue and RMS Sky Blue. Apply these colors to the cloak, banner, reigns, griffon’s eyes, and the rest of the cloth on the prince. I washed the tiny bits of cloth on his body with Army Painter Blue Tone Ink before highlighting for a little extra contrast.
Next, apply a skin color to the prince’s face and wash. I used VGC Elf Skin and Army Painter Strong Tone Ink. After that, apply a silver to the armor and lance. I used VMA Aluminum.
When that paint has dried, wash the armor. I used a thinned VMA Black as a wash.
While that dries, drybrush your base. I used RMS Terran Khaki.
When your wash has dried, clean up the silver metal where necessary. Then apply gold where you choose. Also, paint in the gems on the elf and any other tiny details that are left.
Apply flock to the base, attach the model, and you are done!
Picture of him will go up in the gallery soon!
I had a Feral Warpwolf sitting on my shelf that was just waiting for a base, and he had been waiting for that base for going on a year…no idea how that happened! So I decided to just go ahead and get that taken care of. I had some spare sculpey bits and some wooden craft sticks sitting around, as well as some leaves for basing that I really love.
First, I tore the edges of the sculpey and stacked a few bits together. I also broke off bits of some craft sticks. I then assembled all of this with some super glue. PVA would probably be fine as well, but I accidentally bought a HUGE bottle of super glue that turned out to be 30 minutes set time (I didn’t read the label thoroughly…), so I use it for basing a lot.
After the glue set, I used Vallejo Red Oxide Paste to fill gaps, smooth transitions, add texture, and glue additional rocks on.
Then I began airbrushing. First was a mix of RMS Woodstain Brown and RMS Golden Shadow. It doesn’t matter too much at this point to be neat.
Then I started adding color, because straight grey or brown is so boring! Also, nothing in nature is truly just one color, a brown rock is more than just brown if you really look at it. I used VGC Goblin Green next.
And RMS Bloodstain Red, then VGC Falcon Turquoise…
After that I washed it with GW Agrax Earthshade to tie it all back together.
Here is the wash dried:
Then I began drybrushing, first with RMS Aged Bone.
Next, I drybrushed several more colors – RMS Rust Brown, VMC Azure, VGC Goblin Green, RMS Golden Shadow.
Then it was time to black out the edges, drill holes for the pins in the Feral Warpwolf’s feet, and attach the model. Once that was done, I put Vallejo Matte Medium on the base wherever I thought it looked like it needed fallen leaves, and then applied Secret Weapon Summer Color Mix fallen leaves to those areas.
Now that it finally has a base, this model will be listed for sale soon!
Recently, I painted Reaper Finari Female Paladin. This was the metal version of the model. As usual, it was primed with Vallejo Surface Primer. I primed it with zenithal lighting, which is something I’ve been doing a lot more lately, and I find it can be very helpful.
Using RMS Fair Skin and RMS Fair Highlight and RMS Flesh Wash (as a glaze) I painted her face. I also used RMS Golden Blonde on her hair.
After that I washed her hair with GW Seraphim Sepia.
Next, her hair was drybrushed with RMS Golden Blonde, and then drybrushed again with a mix of RMS Golden Blonde and RMS Linen White. I also painted in her eyes.
After, I basecoated the various parts of the model with RMS Oiled Leather, RMS Muddy Brown, or VMC Dark Prussian Blue.
After that I began the blue NMM.
The base is carved sculpey tiles mounted on cork.
First it was basecoated VMA Mahagony.
Then I began lightening it up.
Next, I highlighted the blue cloak and finished the blue NMM.
Then it was time to begin the gold NMM.
Then I finished the base.
And worked more on the gold NMM and the steel NMM of the sword, and did the leather bits.
And here she is finished!
After my last post I did a lot more work on Dalton Krieg. I finished the tunic, painted details per the character description I was given, and began a base. I built the base up with green stuff to the level of the rocky base he was cast with. I didn’t have to take much care to make it flat since it was going to be a stone floor. The texture could only work in my favor.
After the green stuff hardened I painted the base!
I recently painted a knight to be used as a D&D character – Reaper Dalton Krieg, Adventuring Knight. I really like this sculpt, although the cast had some issues on the face. On this model I tried a new-to-me technique for shading and highlighting metallic paint.
First, the model was primed Vallejo Surface Primer Grey. He was painted with the sword and shield separate.
Next, I painted the armor with a basecoat of VMA Gungrey.
Next, I decided to use the verdaccio underpainting technique on the red tunic, and this time with greater care than before. First, I used RMS Military Green.
Next I added black to the Military Green to deepen the shadows.
After the green undercoat was finished, I used a 1:1 mix of RMS Violet Red and VMC Carmine Red for the base red color. You can see how the shading of the red is already well-started.
Next it came time for the armor! The new-to-me technique is really more of a way of looking at how to paint metals in general. Basically, all metal is painted in a NMM technique whether you’re using regular paints or metallic paints. High contrast is extremely important, as is taking into consideration what the metal will reflect. You have to paint in all the darks and lights. The metallic paint will not do all that on its own, and it’s not designed to. To that end, I shaded the VMA Gungrey with a very thin VMA Black (mixed something like 5 parts water to 1 part paint, maybe even a little thinner). I highlighted first with a very thin VMA Aluminum, and then with a very thin VMA White.
The bulk of the work on this figure was done with my airbrush. I used Reaper Dark Elf Shadow as a base color, then highlighted with RMS Dark Elf Highlight. I used VMA Black for the deepest shadows. Then I used VMC Dark Prussian Blue (a fabulously beautiful color!) to begin the blue areas on the wings, frills, and body. After that, the blue areas were taken up to RMS Surf Aqua. Then, for the final lights on those areas, I used VMA White and then RMS Surf Aqua again. Putting the white first allows the Surf Aqua to be brighter. The transparent nature of these paints means that even if a bright color is used, if it has a dark base it will not appear bright. Putting that white “barrier” in between the dark and the aqua helps that.
The airbrush really made quick work of it to this point, but now it was time for the detail-work.
The plan was to make the scales, especially the chest, appear iridescent. To that end, the next colors used were a bright green and a violet-red.
After that it was the horns. I base-coated them with RMS Weathered Stone.
After that, I washed them with Army Painter Dark Tone Ink, and then highlighted them back up with RMS Weathered Stone.
About this point in the painting, the owner of this dragon asked me to add a washer in the base so that it magnetic counters used in D&D would stick to it, so I dug a hole in the cork to place it so that the surface of the base could remain flat.
Next, I covered the washer with Vallejo Red Oxide Paste.
After that dried, I began painting over it to blend that area back into the base, and I decided the eyes should be a bright orangey-yellow instead of bright blue.
And here he is finished:
This dragon was a ton of fun to paint. I really enjoyed the colors. However, the Bones plastic was such a pain! Mould lines would just appear out of nowhere! I will probably paint a couple more of these dragons this year.